Christopher Lucas
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Reel Rock 7

14/10/2012

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Went to the Reel Rock climbing film festival last night in Plymouth. Awe inspiring films! Conrad Anker's passion and drive for the Sharks Fin on Meru Peak despite the odds stacked against was humbling and made me feel pretty lame for my best endeavours on a wet Dewerstone during the day!
Dura Dura was again almost painful to watch with Adam Ondra's total commitment to the route and incredible primal screams as it eluded him. Whole audience was silently willing him on during the concluding ascent. Loved how they made fun of Chris Sharma being so cool but seriously the guy has a dog that can use a skateboard!
Thought I might be over the Wide Boyz by now having been bombarded with magazine articles on their endeavours over the past few months. Can't help but like and admire these guys though. Great sense of humour to the film and impossible not to love the fact that they trained in their cellar endlessly on DIY off width mock ups popped over to the States and against all the odds systematically ticked off all the great off width sends then the icing on the cake, Century Crack a varst ceiling crack going at 5.14!
Undoubtedly my favourite of the night though had to be Honnold 3.0. Alex Honnold climbing the Yosemite triple ie Mt Watkins, El Cap (the nose at night!) and Half Dome. Done in 19hrs his speed was largely due to soloing 95% of the routes! He is plain not normal but totally inspirational at the same time. The tension was palpible and I'm pretty sure I stopped breathing a few times. Even his 'training' on 'boulders' was terrifying. Loosely termed a high ball challenge with 25 bouldering mats beneath it was basically the height that in the UK we would just call a crag and be done with it. Definite legend of his time!
Trailer for the films can be found at:

www.reelrocktour.com
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